Vanilla slice from Woodys at Golden BeachPhoto Erle Levey / Sunshine Coast Daily
Vanilla slice from Woodys at Golden BeachPhoto Erle Levey / Sunshine Coast Daily Erle Levey

Fond memories of sweet vanilla slice treat

EVERYONE has probably tried one at some stage .. or been tempted.

From school tuckshops to the sitting rooms of country homesteads or harbour side mansions. From morning smoko to elegant dessert trays.

A veritable sweet or a cheap treat? Maybe that is it. The secret to a vanilla slice is that it is such an enigma. Plain, simple … like a cream sponge. That simple you cannot hide any imperfections. The vanilla slice is one of those humble Australian bakery items that qualifies as "good old" for its longevity and as "humble" because of its modest level of finesse.

So much so that it has embedded itself into the Australian way of life. Much like the confection itself … a custard filling sandwiched between two layers of pastry and icing on top.

Yet what of the humble slice? Is it a rip-off of the elegant French mille feuille, a variation on the English counterpart, something borrowed from eastern Europe or is it a creation from the land down under? As Aussie as Vegemite?

While recipes may date back to the turn of the last century, the question is if it was popular then or is it a child of the Second World War … the struggle years of farming, the suburban wage earners? But there are mysteries in all this.

What was your childhood vanilla slice like? Did it have a different name? And how long has it been around? Not the Continental or Napoleon with those layers of pastry and custard topped with cream. This is about the no-nonsense slice … creamy custard sandwiched between two layers of pastry with a icing on top.

Yet the filling, and more so the icing, changes from place to place, state to state. Maybe it has something to do with region. Perhaps it is simply what the baker was brought up with.

The icing has varied greatly from pink, white or yellow - raspberry, vanilla or passionfruit - and slightly sticky as opposed to hard or distinctly runny. We are seeing vanilla icing with fine chocolate decoration - waves or leaf motifs. And some dusted with powdered icing sugar. I like eating them but, when you think about it, there's not a lot that's truly impressive.

Try too hard at creating a good vanilla slice and you lose the appeal. Somehow, it just all comes together to be something innocuously pleasant. Maybe life just has to be that way sometimes!

A cheap treat that only serves to put on weight or a national treasure that has become woven through the tapestry of Australia's heritage, whether served at official functions or lifting the spirits of communities ravaged by bushfire, drought or flood ...

Something that is enjoyed for afternoon tea at cricket matches at all the little bush grounds across the land. It's not a cheap treat if you use quality ingredients - butter, eggs, cream, sugar, puff pastry and a lot of love. Yummy, I'm hungry. Ask a Sydney-sider and they will say it has got to be fresh passionfruit icing and flaky pastry, the passionfruit giving a sharp taste so the icing will not be too sweet.

Many remember them being made with Sao biscuits or the sweeter lattice biscuits. You can tell the quality of the pastry by its cut-ability. Firm enough to hold the slice together yet soft enough to be able to cut through with a table knife. Maybe that is another quirk … they are not meant to be shared. Yet a whole one could be too much for one person. It's like having good custard in a dish, I am told. Forget the pastry and just eat the custard with a spoon. Yet just what is the appeal of the vanilla slice?

The starting point is a square about 7cm wide and about 4cm high, with soft (not runny) white icing. Yet we are seeing more and more of the rectangular shape. And with a dusting of icing sugar rather than icing. After many conversations on the subject I have come to a generalisation that Victorians prefer vanilla icing, passionfruit in New South Wales and Queenslanders leaning towards raspberry pink but also happy with white icing.

Originally from Perth, Western Australia, Bread on Buderim baker Rob believes pink icing was the traditional style, which only adds to the conundrum.

They are also known by a variety of names. Custard squares or custard slices in Queensland yet school kids in the southern states had other names - snot blocks (Victoria) and pus pies (NSW). Some are bringing in the thin wavy chocolate lines on the white icing. Any more than that and I think it loses its simple appeal.

Icing and cutting - this was all done while the slice was still cold. Today they have specially calibrated cutting tools to ensure nice, even squares ... or rectangles. Mention the name and it evokes memories of the smell of the shop across the road from school - pies, lollies, sausage rolls, cream buns - that was before school tuckshops.

Vicki Stewart, who was originally from Moree in NSW, maintains the best vanilla slices came from country bakeries.

"A vanilla slice in a school lunch was the biggest treat," she says.

"A cheap treat? It's why we had them. The small country bakeries were the best 'cause they used mum's recipes."

An auntie reminded me on Facebook that my mother made wonderful vanilla slices.

Yes, I had forgotten. Being on a farm we always had homemade cakes and biscuits.

But the vanilla slice almost escaped me. Thin white icing with fresh passionfruit pulp mixed in.

So who eats them today and what does the style of vanilla slice say about the neighbourhood?

Softer, fancier, more creamy in some areas compared to a serviceable no-secrets attitude in others?

What time of day - morning or afternoon tea, enjoyed by tradies, school kids or baby boomers?

One thing I did discover is that you need to be at the bakery early of a Friday. In my search for the great vanilla slice I had to go to five bakeries last week to get one. Why? I had waited until 1pm.

Prices seem to vary from $3.50 and $3.80 to $4.50.

Artist Sue Needham, who has lived and worked in all Australian eastern states, remembers the icing her mum made was shiny, white, runny with fresh passionfruit mixed in.

While it may have been adapted from similar sweets in other parts of the world I believe we have created something to be proud of, something that reflects who we are ... especially when topped with slightly runny passionfruit icing.

Vanilla slice - quick recipe

 250gm packet lattice or Sao biscuits

 300ml carton or tub thickened cream

 1 cup milk

 85gm packet vanilla instant pudding

 Passionfruit icing

 1 cup icing sugar

 2 passionfruit

 1 teaspoon soft butter


Cover base of 23cm square slab pan with biscuits, plain side down if there is a choice

Combine cream and milk in large bowl, add pudding mix; beat with rotary beater for about one minute or until smooth. Pour pudding mixture over biscuits. Top with a single layer of biscuits, plain side down.

Top with icing, refrigerate overnight

Passionfruit icing:

Combine sifted icing sugar, passionfruit pulp and butter in heatproof bowl. Stir over hot water until icing is spreadable.

Serve: within one day